Finally Here

Finally - Nepal!

 Beginning the descent into Kathmandu … wondering what it will look like from the sky … and then there they are – the Himalayas.  Rugged and steep, dotted with villages and trails.  I can’t believe I am really going to Nepal.

And then, I honestly can’t believe this is what it looks like.  Kathmandu valley sprawls below with its many, many multi-story buildings all tucked into this densely populated area. 

After a 4-hour flight sitting next to a very pleasant Orthopedic Surgeon from Chicago who was on a Medical Missions trip to Kathmandu, I am greeted by an easy Customs and Immigration process.  So far, so good.  

My contact, Prabeen, is easy to spot outside.  He's pleasant and handsome with a cute smile (he's no Gene, of course. Miss you, honey 😘). He calls the driver to bring the car, off we go, and then we enter THE MOST insane traffic I have ever encountered in my life - ever, ever, ever.  I say to Prabeen, " I have never seen traffic like this."  Prabeen then says what I am actually thinking, "the traffic is crazy here."  Ya think 🤣

There are cars, trucks, motorbikes, pedestrians, more motorbikes, more pedestrians, more cars all rambling along uneven, pot-hole filled roads.  Yes, they drive on the "wrong" side of the street, but once you are on the smaller roads, you can't really tell what the right side is anyway.  The motorbikes are scooting in between cars all over the place and passing ever so closely to everyone else.  The pedestrians are dodging vehicles as they cross streets all while looking like they are just out for a Sunday stroll.  

Lesson 1: Do NOT text while walking 😂

We arrive at the charming boutique hotel, Nepali Ghar – my home for the next 4 nights.

Prabeen and I go to the lovely courtyard and review the itinerary for the next few days. 

We drink Nepali tea.  He insists - it’s a mainstay.  It was quite tasty.  

I enjoy a lite snack of Yak Cheese  (DELICIOUS) ... and a chic pea dish with a nan-type bread (also delicious!)

Prabeen says since I like this I will like Nepali food. 😁

Prabeen teaches me “Thank you” in Nepali, “Dhanyavad” or धन्यवाद

(And yes, “Namaste” is the greeting.  The meaning is something along the lines of “I honor the spirit in you” – quite a lovely concept if you ask me.)

After a nice long nap I meet my guide in the lobby.  We headed out for a long walk around Thamel and Ason Market.

This is REALLY where the sensory overload kicks in and a new “appreciation” for the traffic settles in. Being a passenger in a car is one thing; walking in it a whole other.

(Though honestly after spending over 2 hours navigating the passages and strolling the streets I was amazed at just how the traffic really works.  It’s a giant (rather successful) experiment in trusting each other and cooperarting.) 

What did I notice about the people on the motorbikes?

Some wore helmets, many did not.  Adults carry kids, even very small ones, on the motorbikes.  The child is held tightly directly in front of driver.   (Although I did spot a woman sitting on the back of a bike carrying a small child on her hip. ) 

Lots of times there was more than 1 person and it was not always the man driving. At one point I also saw 4 people – yes, 4 – on one motorbike.  2 adults, front and back, with 2 small children sandwiched in between.  ( Mom, you would be having a heart attack – but don’t worry I won’t be getting on one any time too soon.  LOL.)

What did I discover on our stroll?  

Temples, temples and more temples - around every corner, inside hidden courtyards, big ones, small ones, everywhere temples.

 

 

A father letting his child spin the prayer wheels.

 

Butter lamps in a temple

Marigold is the favorite of Laxmi - the goddess of wealth and prosperity.

Worshipers sometimes take small bit of marigolds and 

place in their hair when they are in the temple.

I am learning so much fast and furiously about Hindu and Buddhist principles but I certainly cannot make sense of it all yet.

What I can tell you is that their faith is a central part of their everyday lives

To me this was the quintessential picture of "What I think of when I think of Nepal" - a buddhist temple.  That was before learning that most Nepali are actually Hindu BUT there is a big crossover of the two.

And the power lines - OMG.  Strung everywhere - clearly the code enforcement is a little different than at home LOL

As for power, when you are researching Nepal you find that not that long ago there used to be regular power outages but their system has been getting better.  I have only experienced a very brief one last night.

Thamel is the tourist hub in Kathmandu though there were clearly lots of locals in the area, too.  

When you move from the tourist area you can tell as the goods in the shops change to more every day items - grains, fruits and veggies, and meat.   (It was shocking to see dead chickens just laying there on the counters.  Yup, exactly like it sounds.)

This is where many  locals do their shopping.  Ason Market - it is a "supermarket."  

Would I have loved to take a picture of the people selling the produce, etc?  For a purely photographic experience, yes.  From an ethical standpoint, no.  It just did not feel right to ask these very poor people to let me take their picture so I can have a "good photo."

There is actually a whole school of thought on ethical travel photography.  

I didn't need to know that to realize it just didn't feel right.  Not trying to sound on my high horse, just wanting to share some of the "emotional" side of being here.  It's very conflicting.  

At one point we start hearing music and then we discover its source ... 

I couldn't understand what it was all about 

but my guide was saying something along the lines of these are farmers ... 

Lots of rooftop gardens. I found this home particularly pretty.

Oh yeah, and stray dogs EVERYWHERE.  I am SUPER glad I have my rabies vaccine before I visited.  The dogs are not intrusive though.  They are just laying around everywhere, and when they are up and about they don't seem the least interested in me.  Yahoo!

And beautiful wood carvings - lots and lots and lots.  Some are being refurbished; some are original.

Original temple, woodcarving and power lines - all in 1 shot :)

And some random things ...

A stand selling Lassi - a Nepali yogurt drink.

It was on my itinerary to try but my guide was very nervous for me. He said he doesn't even trust the water used at places like this.

He didn't have to tell me twice... 

Need some divine intervention on dental health?

Nepal now have more dental practices available but you use to go and nail a coin here.

All of this from a 3-hour walk ... 

very intense, very fascinating, very informative.

What is Khatmandu to me on Day 1:

Temples, people, motorbikes, power lines, stray dogs, woodcarvings, metalworks, market stalls, people, people and more people.

I look forward to my image evolving as I continue to explore the city and meet its people.

But no matter how many photos I take none of them will capture its essence.  This I know.